In the center, the great plaza is decomposing on various wide
terraces, which on the west, face the imposing Cyclopean parameters
of the sacred plaza, which are stepped almost vertically over
them. On the east they face the highest part of urin, which
contains the palace that has been called the aqllawasi from
the supposition that it would have lodged a group of chosen
women whose service to the Inca included fine handcraft labor.
In fact, it is a matter of a second plaza, or perhaps a garden
or orchard, formed by a flat space with a well-defined rectangular
ground plan.
To the south the large plaza also takes in another space
differentiated at a lower level and in the form of a trapezoid.
It is at the foot of the palace to the west and of a shrine
and an urin mausoleum to the east; it is also very elegant
and associated with a surrealistic allegory of a condor
in the pose of descending upon a cave. Here the plaza ends,
which, as we see, crosses the whole north-south axis of
Machu Picchu with its various levels of flights of steps.
All of it except the south end of the shrine, where the
royal mausoleum is located to the west and a group of houses
to the east, both separated by rather high terraces. This
face without a plaza borders on the north with the main
flight of steps, the one which, moreover, is accompanied
from the Torreon by a chain of fountains united by canals
carved into the rock.
Wayna Picchu and the temple of the moon - Wayna
Picchu, the "young mountain"
Owing to the documents that have been found in the last
few years, we know that the site in times previous to the
visit of Hiram Bingham was simply called Picchu or "mountain".
It had two sections: the southern a humpbacked massif called
Machu ("elder" or "old"), and the northern
slender and standing erect, called Wayna ("younger"
or "young"). The sanctuary is really in the middle,
between the two peaks, on the crest which bridges them together.
The name Machu Picchu is due to Bingham's guides' reference
to the section to which they had to climb in order to arrive
at the ruins.
When we arrive at the north end of the sanctuary, behind
the Sacred Rock we find the path that leads to Wayna Picchu.
After passing a small hill called Uña, the path becomes
a long narrow flight of steps which circles the hill on
the west. Its steps, in some stretches, are carved directly
into the rock.
Together the path, which adapts to the curves of the hill,
we can appreciate small terraces for cultivation that formed
part of the two gardens which adorned the sanctuary and
its surroundings. Another path ascends Wayna Picchu from
Mandorpampa, to the northeast. It is steeper, longer, and
crosses terraces and grottos which served for keeping the
dead.
On the summit, which is knife-shaped, at an altitude of
2720 m, in the middle of the rocks there is a carved stone
that popular imagination has designated the "Inca's
chair". There are also a few chambers and terraces.
The view is impressive: the whole sanctuary is seen as though
it were a scale model and in the setting one appreciates
the wide horizon made up by mountain peaks, the meanders
of the Urubamba and the ruggedness of the ravines.
The temple of the Moon
Although the landscape and the few remains of buildings
and terraces situated on top of the mountain are worthy
of esteem for themselves, there is no doubt that that the
set of caverns on the north slope, with their back to the
sanctuary, is a spectacular monument. The caverns are perched
on the cliffs of the Cordillera, virtually over the Urubamba
River, which runs several hundred feet down in the depths
of the canyon which surrounds the mountain as it changes
its south - north course in the opposite direction to form
a sort of great scroll.
Many of the caverns have been embellished by man and converted
into chambers probably destined for burials. The more notable
ones are known as the Temple of the Moon. Actually this
name is arbitrary, just like many the many names by which
the other sectors of Machu Picchu are known.
And it is that here there did not even have to be a temple,
even though the forms and location of the caverns announce
a ceremonial rather than domestic administrative or military
function. Several of the caverns are interconnected.
There is a very large cavern on the route which comes up
from Mandorpampa. It is a cavern stationed under a large
rock, similar in a way to that of the royal mausoleum or
the Crypt of the Condor. It is some 7 m wide, 12 m long
and 2.5 m high, and the earth floor is flat. Over this is
another similar one and both are associated with covered
corridors, stairs and intermediary passages. The caverns
have been conditioned with much care: the internal walls
are of fine masonry and present luxurious details, such
as niches with triple jambs and altars carved into the rock.
Apart from the royal and the condor mausoleums, these are
the most outstanding.
In the excavations performed by Bingham's team, on the
northern and eastern slopes, about five caves were found
that were occupied presumably for keeping mummified bodies.
Lamentably, the caves that were associated with the Temple
of the Moon do not still contain remains, which were probably
looted. Those that remained were poorly finished and just
hid broken ceramics. They were crevices rather than caves.
Reconstructing the past
Every time we are faced with a place whose written history
does not exist, there is a great temptation to imagine how
it was and who lived there in its time of splendor. We conceive
of people walking through the streets and plazas, seated
or performing ceremonies, using their vessels, dressed with
their adornments... Live or written reports no longer exist,
but we all know something like this happened in that place.
Archaeology and ethnohistory help resolve those and other
questions, but of course they have limitations. Who lived
in Machu Picchu and what did they do? If the hypothesis
that it was the mausoleum of Pachakutec Inca Yupanqui is
valid, it is worth the trouble to know as it could have
been that place in such conditions.
The mausoleum of the Inca was surrounded by temples, altars
and other spaces where the coya, the head of the panaca
("family") of Pachakutec, his servants, and the
amautas who maintained the cult lived, far from the regular
circuit of the roads, in the middle of a forest of orchids.
If Machu Picchu was the Inca's "house", called
Patallacta in the chronicles, it must have been constructed
during his long mandate at the beginning of the fifteenth
century, some hundred years before the arrival of the Spanish.
According to what the old accounts say, those residences
were used by the Incas themselves for their recreation and
rest while they lived. They were endowed with all the resources
necessary for their operation without depending on the outside,
with their own fields for cultivation, livestock, workshops
and the rest.
Inca society
Whoever lived in Machu Picchu must have been close to the
Inca. Inca society had a rigid social structure in its ethnic
relations and as a function of where power originated but
not as a function derived from wealth. Class structure did
not respond so much to the position of persons within a
scale of economic power, as much as to individuals' belonging
to lineages and specific communities or to the functions
that they had to fulfill within these collectives, which
were hierarchized according to the sphere of their domain
and the character of their competencies.
Power was obtained through ethnic membership and from performance.
Ethnic chiefs were the curaca, hierarchized according to
the territorial and social magnitude of their chiefly functions
from local curaca to curaca who had authority over several
communities. The Incas had power over many of these curaca
and these over a chain of other chiefs of lesser territorial
levels. In this way the Inca had available to him the tribute
and services of a large number of people, but always through
the various intermediary levels which the curaca represented.
When the Inca managed to conquer Tawantinsuyu, his transition
from king to emperor was that of a curaca who had power
over a sphere which encompassed communities from the Cuzco
watershed, to one which was progressively incorporating
under its control the labor and obedience of many ethnic
groups that inhabited other territories. To be king of Cuzco
meant, in its moment, that local curaca passed to the condition
of sinchi owing to the warrior dominion over the valleys
of Cuzco. The condition of Yupanqui ("he who adds or
unites") and of Sapan ("only") Pachacutec
Inca acquired on dominating other ethnic groups outside
of Cuzco.
And the descendants of this Inga Yupangue were called from
then on till now Capac aillo Inga Yupanque Haguaynin which
says the lineage of descending kings and grandchildren of
Inga Yupangue and these are the most exalted and have the
most among those of Cuzco that no one from another lineage
and these are the ones who were commanded to wear two feathers
on the head.
To be of the lineage of the Incas conceded a lot of prestige
and privileges. Those of the lineage of Pachacutec, for
this reason, were distinguished from the rest. The other
Cuzco lineages were their "peers" but maintained
only the dignities of their ancestry, without acquiring
any other privilege except status. The wife of Pachakutec
is described by Juan de Betanzos in Chapter 17.
The cult of the dead Inca
According to Betanzos in chapter 32, "the mummified
body of Pachacutec was in a town known as Patallacta, from
where it was carried in a litter to the city of Cuzco for
certain important ceremonies. On such occasions it was exhibited
in the house of the Sun, or Qoricancha, together with the
mummies of the rest of the Incas, making them participate
in them as if they were alive, pretending that they taked
with him. One part of the ritual included sings which repeated
the deeds he performed in life, in wars as well as in his
public works. Likewise, they changed his clothing and they
served him food and drink the in the same way as when he
was alive. "
If we move this reference to Machu Picchu, we can imagine
the mummified body of the Inca deposited in the crypt which
lies below the Torreon in which there is a window prepared
to hold and tie up the golden idol which Pizarro later carried
off. We can also imagine that this mummy and that of the
curaca Chanca Usco Willca (who it seems always accompanied
him) went and came from Cuzco in ritual processions two
or three times a year. We can also imagine that this mummy
and that of the curaca Chanca Usco Willca (who it seems
always accompanied him) went and came from Cuzco in ritual
processions two or three times a year.
According to Betanzos, the cult of the dead Incas was established
by Pachakutec. The chronicler tells that when Pachacuteq's
father Viracocha "died at the age of 80 or more, in
his "house" in Xaquixahuana, above Colca he honored
very much having his body brought in a litter well adorned
as though he were alive to the city of Cusco every and when
there were celebrations, paying honor to his person to the
lords of Cusco and the rest of the caciques ... before which
bundle (mummy) they made sacrifice and burn many sheep and
lambs (alpacas and llamas) and clothing and maize and coca
and spill much chicha ..., and he had made very many bundles
(mummies) and so many lords had succeeded since Mango Capac
until his father Viracocha Inga ... to those which he ordered
that everyone respect and revere as idols and that thus
they were made sacrifices like those who were placed in
their houses and every time when and when that some lords
entered where the Inga was they were paying respect to the
sun and then to the bundles and then they entered into where
the Inga was."
This same chronicler says that "for the service of
which bundles [mummies] he indicated and named a certain
quantity of yanaconas and mamaconas and gave them lands
in which to sow and gather for the service of these bundles
and also indicated much livestock for sacrifices they therefore
had to do and this service and lands and livestock he gave
and he distributed to each bundle by itself and ordered
that they take great care continually at night and in the
morning to give to eat and to drink to these bundles and
sacrifice them for which he commanded and indicated that
each one of these a steward of the such servants as he also
indicated."
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